I heard it just now. The sound of La Serenissima: the characteristic squeak of a rubber boat bumper against a piling in the rio right outside; I was taking a short turn outside where there's a cooling breeze and the warm light pours out of the opened windows on the second and third floors of the buildings, where Venetians traditionally live. (The first floor was where the boats were docked in sea level slips and where businesses were often housed; in the houses of the wealthy, the second or third floor was the piano nobile, where private lives were lived.)
I should be exhausted and, in fact, I could barely keep up a conversation at dinner; all my energy had been spent on the two days of travel it takes to get here from the Islands. No missed connections this time, but two plane changes and a long, long flight over the pole from Philadelphia.
Today's best moments:
• bumping along in the chop aboard an Alilaguna water bus, Italian pop singer Paulo Meneguzzi flowing through the Bose speakers from my iPod, watching the boatmen thread skilfully around each other.
• turning into the Fondamenta (walkway along a canal) in the "street" where I stayed two years ago and where I'm staying now, seeing my girlfriend's smiling face appear in the second-story window, feeling "a casa" (at home).
• wandering aimlessly in the back alleys around San Marco square, where the high-end shops are; best was an antqiue shops near Campo San Stefano where I saw a gold watch that pins on a garment; it's been playing on my mind ever since. I've always wanted one of these, and my rule on shopping is, if something is still on your mind a day later, it might be meant for you. I also saw the perfect gift, a pair of espresso cups that will complement a friend's china. Didn't get 'em but I'll be going back as it's in the street nearby where we have our daily espresso.
• watching the waiter deconstruct a whole grilled fish with a spoon and fork, pausing to dig out the tender moist cheeks, and, in the end, slathering the remnants (skin, bones and such) with olive oil and using the fruity, fishy results to dress the fillets.
• that quiet stroll and the sounds of La Serenessima.
Tomorrow, Ca' Rezzonico, which houses the 18th century art of Venice and also an exhibit that's part of the Biennale, the biannual modern art celebration going on here now. And we're going to venture out to Rose Salva for breakfast, known for its cakes, gelato and traditional Venetian baked goods. Gelato for breakfast? Perche non?